NEW SEASON // Ann Demeulemeester Men’s Fall Winter 2012

Clever­ly man­ipulat­ing trends and clas­sic sil­houet­tes, Ann De­meulemeest­er pre­sents a modern in­terpreta­tion of 19th Cen­tu­ry tailor­ing for Fall 2012. The col­lec­tion is dominated by an ombré gradient ef­fect, seen ac­ross stains, stripes and her­ringbone prints that ex­tend up the legs of trous­ers or ac­ross the chest and should­ers of struc­tured jac­kets, tail­coats and knit­wear. Full suit­ing, elon­gated sil­houet­tes and tapered col­lars re­call De­meulemees­ter’s own in­spira­tion for the col­lec­tion; French boy-poet, Arthur Rim­baud, of­fer­ing an avant-garde take on the De­cadent move­ment.

De­spite Rim­baud’s pre­s­ence in both her Spr­ing 2012 and Fall 2012 col­lec­tions, De­meulemees­ter’s re­presen­ta­tions of the French poet are striking­ly dif­ferent. In contra­st to Fall 2012’s roman­tic aesthetic, Spr­ing em­phasized a re­laxed vis­ion in­spired by Rim­baud’s self-exile to Af­rica, sub­t­ly evi­dent in her neutr­al palet­te and ex­ag­gerated layer­ing of vests, frin­ge or tunics cut in lig­htweight silk.

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