Olivier Rousteing’s illustration of Tsarist Russia is articulated through his Fall 2012 collection’s verdant fabrications and military-precise tailoring, presented as a subtle yet sumptuous interpretation of the Rococo movement. Rousteing’s painstakingly intricate embroideries and pearl embellishments weave in jocular, floral-like patterns and sinuous lines, curving around the shoulders of a silk blouse or undulating down the chest of a minimalist t-shirt, recreating the late Russian Baroque ornamentation also present in Rousteing’s Fabergé Egg inspiration. Opulent Fabergé Egg elements are re-worked as argyle and floral motifs across burnt-out velvet mini-dresses and backless halter tops and gowns, carrying over to structured runway jackets as plush, rich quilting.
Rousteing’s Tsarist military influence can be traced in the finer details of the collection, elevated through his focus on clean lines and square shoulders. Fitted blazers and double-breasted jackets offered in a deep palette of crimson, emerald and onyx feature strict tailoring and gold hardware, echoed by the collection’s embossed gold buttons and oversize belt buckles that heighten Rousteing’s military inspiration.